Side Trips: Isla Holbox

Isla Holbox (105 miles northwest of Cancún)

Holbox, a long, narrow island 7 miles off the northern coast of the Yucatán, is one of the Riviera Maya's lesser known and underappreciated side destinations. It has a year-round population of only 1,500, including descendants of the island's original eight families. It is said to have been settled by pirates who used it as a hideout and then ended up making friends with the local population and decided to stay.

The island is a come-as-you-are hideaway for ultra-casual vacationing. If you consider the Riviera Maya to be the land of mañana (tomorrow), then Holbox would be sometime next week. It's doubtful that anyone has ever worn a tie here, unless it was some kind of joke. Most locals don't even wear shoes since the roads are powdery sand.

Since the island faces the Gulf of Mexico, it does not have the turquoise water that is common in the Riviera Maya. It is more of a greenish murky color, though there are some areas clear enough for snorkeling. Because of the currents and the island's location, thousands of shells wash on shore at each high tide. Many of them are complete, with no breaks, making them highly prized for gatherers.

The island has no cars, just electric carts, bikes, and mopeds. Locals operate the handful of restaurants, bars, and inns. Others go fishing and lobstering and sell their catches each day at the beach. There are no banks or ATMs, and most businesses only accept cash. From May to September, whale sharks pass by just offshore of the island, and tour boats can take you close enough to see them frolic in the water, or you can even don your mask and snorkel and swim right with them. Tourists while away the day on the beach or go windsurfing, sailing, fishing, snorkeling, and diving; several dive sites are reachable via a short boat ride. Local dive and fishing guides can be hired at the boat dock, and rental equipment is available.

Yalahao Lagoon, on the sheltered side of the island, features a mangrove swamp, flamingos, schools of dolphins, and a freshwater spring just up from the beach. It is a popular gathering spot for locals and tourists alike. In the times of the Mayans, it was believed to have curative properties, and natives would come from miles away to rejuvenate and refresh.

Holbox was hit particularly hard by Hurricane Wilma, which pounded the tiny island for hours when it slammed through the region in late 2005. The hotels, restaurants, and shops were flooded and the wind damage was extensive.

Getting There
The island of Holbox is about a three-hour drive from Cancún and then 7 miles offshore. If you're lucky enough to fly there, the airstrip is just a few blocks to the town plaza. (For more information about plane tours to Holbox, log on to the web site for Aerosaab, which has an office in Playa del Carmen, at www.aerosaab.com.) Otherwise, you must first get to the village of Chiquila and then take a ferry to the island. Chiquila can be reached by bus or car from the Riviera Maya. If you're in your own car, a secured lot is available for only $2 a day.

To drive to Chiquila from Riviera Maya, go north on Highway 307, which parallels the coast. Once you pass through Cancún, take Highway 180 west to the town of El Ideal, and then start watching for signs to Holbox, which will lead you to an unnamed road going north to Chiquila.

If you're traveling there by bus, buses depart from the main Cancún bus terminal for Chiquila daily at 8 AM, 12:30 PM, and 1:30 PM. Once you've reached Chiquila, ferry service to Holbox is available at 6 AM, 8 AM, 10 AM, noon, 2 PM, 4 PM, 5 PM, and 7 PM. Return trips to Chiquila depart at 5 AM, 7 AM, 9 AM, 11 AM, 1 PM, 3 PM, 4 PM, and 6 PM. The trip takes 30 minutes and costs $4 per person. A water taxi is available also and costs $20 for up to seven passengers, departing whenever you want.

More:
Riviera Maya Hotels
Airport Transportation
Tours & Activities
Riviera Maya Guidebook