If Playa del Carmen has become the antidote to Cancun’s mass commercialism and over-development, then Tulum is becoming the antidote to Playa del Carmen. For some travelers, Playa del Carmen’s bustling Fifth Avenue walkway, shop-lined town square and trendy beach clubs –- the very things that have made it so popular -- have changed the town’s sense of tranquility and turned it into its own, albeit it more hip, mini-Cancun.
For visitors seeking a real tropical getaway, where the focus remains on nature, on the beach, on the environment, the Cancun coast and Riviera Maya still have some secrets to be uncovered. Some forty-five minutes south of Playa del Carmen, passing by the front-gates of more than a dozen large-scale resort complexes, the road narrows as it enters the dusty town of Tulum. The mile-long main street has a bus station, a handful of restaurants and cantinas and a few auto repair shops.
The real draw of the area is two miles due east, where the crossroad ends at the beach and the bright lights of Cancun and Playa del Carmen seem like a distant memory. There are several hotels along this several-mile stretch of beach and (except for one just-built resort complex) they are nothing like the massive beach resorts that dot the coastline farther north. Simplicity reigns here: no marble lobbies, no white-gloved waiters, no 12-person Jacuzzis.
Three of the area's top hotels are operated by EcoTulum Resorts, a company known for building sustainable accommodations that harmonize with nature, rather than hiding their guests from it. The company started in 1998, with four cabanas at their flagship hotel, Cabanas Copal, on Tulum's pristine beachfront. Today, Copal offers 47 rustic cabanas, some perched on a ridge over the beach and the others staggered from the waterfront under a canopy of palmtrees. The hotel is clothing-optional and is as laid-back as you can get. There is a great restaurant (with Wi-Fi access) and beach bar, so guests never have to leave the property if they don’t want to. There is no electricity, but candles illuminate the common areas and rooms each evening.
In 2003, the company opened Azulik, offering 15 hardwood villa-like cabanas with thatched-palm roofs, rope-suspended beds, sea views and palm-covered walkway bridges that create a romantic, timeless and faraway ambiance. There is no electricity in the villas, but there are safes for laptops and other valuables in each unit. Each room has a carved tree-trunk bathtub and each evening, the staff lights hundreds of candles around the resort and in the guestrooms. Nudity is allowed throughout the property.
The company’s third property, Zahra, was opened in late 2003 and was designed to appeal to traveling families and others who want a taste of the eco-friendly experience but aren’t quite ready to go all the way. Electricity is available from early morning until 11pm and each of the 22 rooms has a ceiling fan and electrical outlet for charging batteries and such. There is wireless Internet access in the hotel’s restaurant and bar area and a convenience store is just across the street. Nudity is allowed on the beach, but not in the common areas.
The properties crown a stunning 500-meter-long beach that is just two miles from the ancient Mayan ruins of Tulum. The beach has been a meeting point for centuries and continues to be the featured attraction for area visitors. Nudity is permitted at most spots and there are many good places for swimming and snorkeling. Other area attractions include tours to Mayan ruins sites, kayaking, scuba diving, cycling and jungle tours. All can be arranged through the hotel tour desks.
A holistic day spa, based at Copal, serves guests staying at any of the properties, as well as outside visitors. Dubbed Maya Spa, it features a variety of therapeutic and relaxing treatments, many performed by traditional Mayan healers. Popular treatments include Chocolate Massages, Healing Massages and a Mayan Clay Massage, where natural clays are rubbed on the body to detoxify the skin, then rinsed away to leave the body fresh and clean. There are crystal therapy treatments, body wraps, Reiki and waxings as well. One of the spa’s signature treatments is the Mayan Bath, a traditional ritual that includes a body massage with essential oils and honey followed by an exfoliation treatment and cool rinse in a floral bath. It can be done in the privacy of a cabana or outdoors, on a cliff overlooking the beach. Another unique option is the Mayan Temazcal, a traditional sweat lodge ceremony, guided by a local shaman, that helps guests get in touch with nature and also with themselves.
Visiting the Tulum beach zone and the EcoTulum resorts is a truly amazing experience. It whisks you away to another time and another place -- where life is simple, where the only thing that matters is your friends and loved ones, and you can focus on your relationship with nature and the world around you. It is not just a vacation, but a deeply spiritual experience that will change the way you look at yourself and the world you live in.
More:
EcoTulum Resorts Official SiteCabanas Copal Info & ReservationsAzulik Info & ReservationsZahra Info & ReservationsRiviera Maya Hotels Airport TransportationTours & ActivitiesRiviera Maya Guidebook
The 2007 Healer's Forum will take place at the EcoTulum Resorts from October 26-31. The conference features free lectures with internationally recognized healers and native shaman, free daily yoga and sunrise Tai Chi as well as a full moon ceremony, a Temascal Mayan sweat lodge, fire dancing, drumming and performance art. Private sessions can be booked with visiting healers. 
A typical day begins with morning yoga and meditation sessions, followed by a healthy breakfast buffet of ripe tropical fruits, crunchy homemade granola, organic eggs with chaya, corn tortillas, fresh fruit juices and robust coffee or tea. After a short digestive break, guests can opt for a therapeutic massage or take part in a round-table discussion with a local shaman, covering topics as diverse as auras, crystal therapies, herbology, Mayan astrology and energy cleansing. There is no cost for attending seminars but individual healing sessions will carry additional prices depending on the therapy.
